Day 15... Stumbling back in time.
Today I mainly saw churches... and more churches... and more churches!!
But before I get to that, for anyone wondering, after 2 x 5a.m phone calls to my banks, probably costing me a fortune, they pronounced the problem solved! Great... so I went to the nearest cash point at 06:30 and proceeded to withdraw, in small amounts, enough to pay for my Amazon trip. Phew!! The banks of course had made a killing because as I was forced to do it in many transactions, I got charged nearly $5 per transaction! bastards!
Still, at least my trip was still on... at least I hoped so. I had arranged this through my original taxi drivers, Alex and Isabel... they had put me in contact with their cousin, Lucia, who in turn put me in contact with another cousin, Leo, who worked for the government tourist branch. He invited me to a tourist travel trade fair and we managed to plan this little trip. Lucia is coming to pick me up tonight to drive me to Coca, the gateway to Yasumi NP. Or at least that's how its supposed to go!!
So today was spent wandering round the historic centre. An age away from yesterdays walk, these buildings are mostly magnificent, even in their dilapidation.
The historic part of Quito is a delight, essentially you stumble across a nice square, or a stunning church, or a architectural marvel, almost by accident. The number of churches is overwhelming, each with their own splendour. I went inside one, and to me, a non religious, non believer, the amount of gold on display was obscene, in a place where many people are extremely poor. Church criticism aside, it looked lovely and the vaulted ceiling was decorated exquisitely.
I also stumbled upon a street which had been refurbished and now housed artisans, mainly chocolateers it seemed. This street, called La Ronda (ringroad) was the name given to streets that fell between city walls and houses. This particular street was home to a martyr revolutionary and an archbishop and was where many intellectuals and literary types met to exchange views and ideas.
Of course though, because Quito is a big city, it is hard to avoid the abject poverty which slaps you in the face at times. People with no arms, no legs, kids who can't walk... all begging for money.
Whilst I was sitting drinking a juice (one of the best things about Ecuador, the juices), a young lad, about 10, asked me if I wanted my shoes cleaned/shined. I was wearing trainers so said no thanks and he wondered away again. I watched him for a while. Just a kid, but at least offering a service rather than just begging. I motioned him over, gave him the handful of coins in my pocket.... he looked at me and said thank you in English... and walked away again. I had given him enough for some food or a drink... but it still upset me... the advantages he would never have that we all take for granted for our children.
As I wondered, I went past the tourist stalls, selling the same things here as in Otavalo... as in the world over...
I watched as groups of westerners followed round a guide, feeling a little smug that I had done it by myself...
The hustle and bustle got to me after a while and I escaped back to the hotel... packed ready to go on the next part of this adventure. I'm unlikely to be able to post the blogs until I get back but in the meantime, you can follow SPOT by clicking on the following link:
https://share.findmespot.com/shared/faces/viewspots.jsp?glId=0cY2h8mIpOWW2H7VFnrdoeZvsStvkD5KJ
I will be taken the prayer flags with me on the trip down the Amazon... thank you to everyone who has sponsored me thus far. Together we Fight Back!!
LHS
But before I get to that, for anyone wondering, after 2 x 5a.m phone calls to my banks, probably costing me a fortune, they pronounced the problem solved! Great... so I went to the nearest cash point at 06:30 and proceeded to withdraw, in small amounts, enough to pay for my Amazon trip. Phew!! The banks of course had made a killing because as I was forced to do it in many transactions, I got charged nearly $5 per transaction! bastards!
Still, at least my trip was still on... at least I hoped so. I had arranged this through my original taxi drivers, Alex and Isabel... they had put me in contact with their cousin, Lucia, who in turn put me in contact with another cousin, Leo, who worked for the government tourist branch. He invited me to a tourist travel trade fair and we managed to plan this little trip. Lucia is coming to pick me up tonight to drive me to Coca, the gateway to Yasumi NP. Or at least that's how its supposed to go!!
So today was spent wandering round the historic centre. An age away from yesterdays walk, these buildings are mostly magnificent, even in their dilapidation.
The historic part of Quito is a delight, essentially you stumble across a nice square, or a stunning church, or a architectural marvel, almost by accident. The number of churches is overwhelming, each with their own splendour. I went inside one, and to me, a non religious, non believer, the amount of gold on display was obscene, in a place where many people are extremely poor. Church criticism aside, it looked lovely and the vaulted ceiling was decorated exquisitely.
I also stumbled upon a street which had been refurbished and now housed artisans, mainly chocolateers it seemed. This street, called La Ronda (ringroad) was the name given to streets that fell between city walls and houses. This particular street was home to a martyr revolutionary and an archbishop and was where many intellectuals and literary types met to exchange views and ideas.
Of course though, because Quito is a big city, it is hard to avoid the abject poverty which slaps you in the face at times. People with no arms, no legs, kids who can't walk... all begging for money.
Whilst I was sitting drinking a juice (one of the best things about Ecuador, the juices), a young lad, about 10, asked me if I wanted my shoes cleaned/shined. I was wearing trainers so said no thanks and he wondered away again. I watched him for a while. Just a kid, but at least offering a service rather than just begging. I motioned him over, gave him the handful of coins in my pocket.... he looked at me and said thank you in English... and walked away again. I had given him enough for some food or a drink... but it still upset me... the advantages he would never have that we all take for granted for our children.
As I wondered, I went past the tourist stalls, selling the same things here as in Otavalo... as in the world over...
I watched as groups of westerners followed round a guide, feeling a little smug that I had done it by myself...
The hustle and bustle got to me after a while and I escaped back to the hotel... packed ready to go on the next part of this adventure. I'm unlikely to be able to post the blogs until I get back but in the meantime, you can follow SPOT by clicking on the following link:
https://share.findmespot.com/shared/faces/viewspots.jsp?glId=0cY2h8mIpOWW2H7VFnrdoeZvsStvkD5KJ
I will be taken the prayer flags with me on the trip down the Amazon... thank you to everyone who has sponsored me thus far. Together we Fight Back!!
LHS
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