Day 3.. Peaceful surroundings

 

Needless to say... last nights sleep was not great at the hostel. We discovered why everyone else had been practically running down the road when we were shown to our room and found only the top bunks were available.

If anyone hasn't stayed in a hostel before, the top bunks are the least sought after for several reasons... firstly after a day of walking, getting up and down is not the easiest thing to do, especially when ypur head is about 2 inches away from the wooden beam.

Secondly, the ladders they use have the thinnest rungs so it ends up like some excruiciating form of torture for your feet. 

Finally there is the concern for your bunk mate below that every toss and turn throughout the night will wake them up as whenever you do try to move, the entire bunk system shakes as if in a force 10 gale. 

The room itself was ok with about 7 bunks but the noise from the occupants inhibited any kind of restful night. The snoring that emenated from 2 or 3 bunks, penetrated to your core as you were trying to drift off. 

Add to that, an aching body which didn't feel comfortable whichever way you turned, and the morning came with indecent haste and bleary eyes. 

It was once again pretty chilly this morning, though perhaps not as cold as the morning in Lugo yesterday. We packed up (in the dark to avoid waking the late risers) and snuck out to breakfast, which consisted of toast and a cup of coffee and a dry muffin. Not the best. I wasn't hungry anyway.

Coats zipped up as far as they would go and hands tucked as far as they could go into the coat sleeves, we set off, up the hill (obviously) and started our day.

Sonia had finally come up with a trail name and so from this point on, for the next 2 days, I will be known as Waymark (due to my obsession with tapping every single one) and Sonia has become London Girl (because everyone thinks she is from London... close enough)

The beginning was on tarmac but fairly soon we branched off down a dirt track, pleased that the footing was a bit softer.

We were walking through cow country, they were everywhere, as was the cow shit. One cow had obviously had a much worse morning than either of us, as we followed the trail of shit all the way up the hill. We passed dairy farms where the cows were contendedly munching the hay provided and a field with some very odd (as in serial killer vibes odd) scarecrows... although the birds were less scared than we were. It was very peaceful though and we had stolen a march on our fellow pilgrims so had the road pretty much to ourselves.

We were intending to stop around mile 5 for a break but at about mile 3.5 we came across a farm house with a beautiful courtyard cafe and a farm cat. The farm cat sold it to me so we went in, sat in the early morning sunshine, and ordered coffee/tea. The cat however was immune to my cat whispering skills and turned its back resolutely.

Here we also got another stamp for our camino passports which was filling up nicely, especially considering we were only doing a small part of the route. Having learnt the word for stamp in Spanish, we managed to ask for it and be understood, either that or she saw the passport in my hand! 

Refreshed and determined to take the day slowly we set off again. We figured that this stretch would be our last day of really beautiful countryside and solitude, as after Melide (where we were staying tonight), the Camino passed through more towns and built up areas on the way to Santiago, at least thats what it looked like on the map. It was also a short day today of only 13 miles, tomorrow being our longest of 20 ish, so today we would go more at an amble.

Despite that determination, we made good time. There was much less tarmac today than yesterday up to this point and we meandered through woods and past streams, over cute little bridges. The main accompanying sound was birdsong, incessant but unobtrusive and the air was fresh. So fresh that my hands took a long time to warm up, and the sun took its time breaking through.

Once again, some of the houses we went past were houses of my dreams, with a distinct hot country style, country villas with surrounding farmland.

We did of course come up with the second verse to our trail song and at for at least 10 minutes of today, the peace of the countryside was shattered and the birds flew away in fear. 

Much of our day was spent in companiable silence, listening to the birds and the wind through the eucalyptus, the sound of our footsteps, often in time with each other, pounding on the gravel trail. I think we were also both suffering with various aches and pains which the silence did little to help. There was very little moaning and groaning from London girl however, less than usual in fact (I did tell her I was writing this) which made me wonder if something was really hurting. (London girl has just commented with satisfaction that she did well to keep her moaning in check... she has also promised that one day (when pigs fly) that there will be no moaning.

We criss crossed the day with several other pilgrims but managed by either slowing down or speeding, to not have to have to much conversation and the trail to ourselves most of the day. 

The highlight of the day for me was the next bit... 

we entered into what appeared to be a national park with pine and eucalyptus trees. Here you could smell the eucalyptus and it reminded me of the days in Ecuador, cycling along breathing in the scent of the tall, elegant trees. I have tried to find a smell. comparable, but the so. called eucalyptus car fresheners or insence oils are no where near the same.

Breathing in the fresh air, the smell of the eucalyptus occasionally tainted by the smell of cow shit, we hiked up and up as the trail got a bit steeper. The trees became fewer and suddenly a panorama emerged. 360 degrees of a stunning view from the top of the hill. And we were the only ones standing there.. stunning and invogorating. To the right an outcrop of rock stood taller and the gravel trail stretched away into the distance.

Shortly after, Sonia decided she needed a tissue. Unfortunately during packing in the dark, they had ended up at the bottom of the pack, so I stood there whilst varying stuff was pulled out of her rucksack in the quest to find a tissue.

The sun beamed through the trees and it really was an idyllic spot, the sun now fully outand becoming stronger as we stood there. Finally layers were discarded and squared away in our bags. Finding a tissue had taken longer than the 8 or so miles so far, but at last we set off again, the track. meandering along the hill side. 

Then up again before steadily descending. I was aiming for another stop about 8 or 9 miles but wanted to stop in a nice trail place, not at the side of tree tarmac. Unfortunately we were all too soon back on the black stuff and it seemed we had missed our opportunity. 

We encountered a few more pilgrims, some going at a rate of knots, their sticks clicking as they hit the tarmac, which became a bit annoying, so we slowed down and let them get well ahead. Others we caught up and overtook, each pilgrim group walking at their own pace... most none took interested in chatting... which suited me fine 😁

We went through a few small old seemingly deserted villages, with few signs of life bar the odd cockeral crowing or dog barking. A few cats meandered along our path but weren't interested in being stroked at all. 

We were back on tarmac for only a short while and then branched off again into some woods. 

After going up a hill and back down again, I found the place we were looking for.... with a bench, in the woods, by a cute little stream. We stopped there and ate some of our rations whilst watching the friendly Robin dart about nearby. Unfortunately the stop meant that some of our muscles complained the moment we stood up and shouldered our packs but I reasoned that it was a bit like power napping... you. may feel like shite when you wake up but the benefit happens in the long run. 

We now only had a few miles to Melide and our destination for today. Despite saying we would take it easy we were within sight of the town and it was only 12 midday. It would take us roughly an hour and a bit to get there... so we thought that if we saw a cafe, we would stop. None materialised however and the sun started beating down but not too long after it got really warm, we found yourselves s on the outskirts of Melide and within 8 minutes of our hotel.. 30 minutes before check in time.

The hotel was good however and let us check in early, stamped our Camino passports and gave us a key to a lovely large room. Sorted. 

And with plenty of time to chill before our longest day tomorrow.

The afternoon and evening passed with a couple trips out into the town... 1st to get pizza, 2nd to find churros. ...  both successful.

We stopped at a pharmacy to find some deep heat substitute and London girl got talked into buying a cannabis based cream, so if she gets detained at the airport you know why 😁

Then it was shower, blog and book.. and an earlish night ready for our 3rd day on the trail tomorrow. 

Night all