Day 14... Climb high, sleep low

 

Today will probably be a relatively short blog... 

Rest/acclimatisation day and much needed for my weary body which has been physically and mentally battered over the last days. I needed to regroup mind and body for the final push up and over the Thorung La pass, one of the highest navigable passes in the world standing at approx 17500ft.

But today was an easier day. A lie in, which considering I woke up at midnight and couldn't get back to sleep till gone 1am, was required. I got up and the first thing I did was wash my cycle shorts under the tap. Then set them out in the early morning sun to dry. I went down for breakfast and the owner of the hotel asked about my plans for the day. When I said perhaps the ice lake, he suggested that it was probably already a little late to be setting off for there because it was a good 4 hours hike up and 2 down. He suggested the viewpoint in the hills opposite the hotel. This had also been recommended to me by a gentleman I met on the way up so I thought it sounded like the better option when all was said and done. The main aim of the trek today was that it wasn't so strenuous but gained me a bit of altitude... I wanted to get to around 12500 ft if possible to help for acclimatisation for the next few strenuous days.

So I took my rucksack and added my wool hat, water, and I wore my down jacket to start the day. I walked up the single street of Manang. Yesterday it had been the oasis that I was aiming for, today it looked a bit of a grimy tourist trap. I filed passed all the shops selling trekking poles, clothes, spikes for shoes and basically everything you might need to go over the pass. 

Then I turned left, past a cow, and down the steps which led to the river crossing and the path upwards to the viewpoint. 

As I reached the river, a man was setting out a stall with trinkets for sale. I promised to buy something from him on the way back. I like to buy from people like him rather than in shops in Kathmandu or Manang as they often miss out on the tourist dollars. 

I crossed the river and chose the suspension bridge, as I hadn't had to cross one of these yet... it did bounce a little but seemed secure enough. 

And then the climb up began... gravel narrow path switching back and forward up loose rock... then it reached the tree line. and the glorious scent of pine pervaded my senses. I stopped many times on the way up, looking at the expansive view and catching my breath. It was quite steep in places, requiring a fair bit of effort and an occasional coughing fit errupted en route. Other than that, going slowly, I felt ok.

I reached the viewpoint in reasonably good time and walked straight into the cafe at the top, ordered hot chocolate and a coke and sat soaking up the sunshine and reading my book. It was a 360 degree panorama of awesomeness (in the true sense of the word), everywhere you looked, white capped mountains, the air fresh to the senses and the feeling of absolute freedom prevailed.

I decided to continue up a bit higher as I still hadn't hit my target height yet. The walk up was again through pine trees, in the sunshine, the glacial rocks tumbling down the side of the mountain next to the one I was on. It was a trultly idyllic place.

I reached my 12500ft goal and was tempted to push myself further up, but avoided temptation. There would be enough challenge in the days to come. Today was also a rest day. So I took one more deep look and breathed in the mountain air deeply.

Then down... the familiar toes shmooshed against the shoes... wobbly legs by the time. I hit the bottom of the path.

I went back to the stall with the jewellery and as promised purchased something from him. He then invited me to have a cup of tea in his restaurant. I had all of the rest of the day to chill so didn't see why not. In the end I spent a pleasant 30 minutes with him and his wife. I said what a beautiful place they lived in and his reply was that it is more beautiful if you have money to build a nice house and keep warm during winter. He had a good point. With 2ft of snow january and february it would be a very harsh place to eek out a living.

I thanked them for their tea and their time, paid and then started back up the millions... yes millions of steps to get me back to my hotel. I think that was the worst bit!

I rewarded myself with a hot chocolate croissant and hot chocolate. Whilst I sat there contemplating my next move, I decided that it would be too easy to stay in Manang, with a nice hotel, warmth, food, western toilet and that it would probably be better therefore that I get off my arse tomorrow and drag it and my bike further up the mountain to Yak Kharka. 

I spent the rest of the afternoon, reading and chatting to some of the fellow hikers that I had met along the way. Here many would go to Tilicho Lake before the pass... I had decided that because I was starting to run out of days, I would forgo the delights of the lake (which was a shame as its supposed to be nice), in favour for getting over the pass and down to Pokhara. Because then, I would have enough time to go to Chitwan National Park, which would be my reward for all my hard work.

So aiming for earlier start tomorrow and what should be quite a nice ride, after the inevitable climb up out of Manang.

Thank you to everyone for the support, comments and sponsorship so far... it is you guys that have kept my legs going forward one way or another. The names have been written on the flags and there is still time to add more. Just send me a message with the name or names you wish to be added. 

Once again a massive thank you to the pet sitting collective who are providing such good care for all my pets, that I don't think they miss me at all.

Onwards, Upwards... Lets Do this!