Sahara Rocks - Day 4
Climb High
Today began early... before sunrise. I had slept well under the stars and had felt nice and warm throughout (thanks Smiley for being a good wind break)
I woke up just before the camp began to stir and lay there watching the stars twinkle in the sky until it was time to get myself and my kit sorted for the pre dawn trek to the top of the Chigga Dune to watch the sun rise.
Headtorches set to on, it felt a bit like people getting ready to summit everest, the quiet bustling and the line of lights making their way across the dunes to the start of the long climb to the summit. We trekked for about 30 mins across the dunes when we reached the bottom of the big one. We set off up the ridge of the dune, in single file, one step at a time, in the footprints of jamal who was leading the way. It was hard work and we were all soon breathing hard and stopping to catch our breath. I have an image in my mind of us all stretched out in a line on that ridge waiting for the person ahead to take a few steps. It reminded me of a photo from an Everest expedition a few years ago of the climbers all lined up waiting for their turn to summit. Just change the snow for sand...
It was magical sitting there, watching the sun peak over the horizon and gradually spreading its warmth over the lanscape below as it rose majestically. It was also a little ironic waiting for the sun given that we would probably be moaning about the heat in a short while.
Once it was above the horizon it rose fairly quickly and the slight chill in the air disappeared immediately. It was time to make our way back to camp for breakfast and we all stood at the top of the precipice looking down the very steep slope of the dune... no ridge walking this time... straight down we go!
Once again comparisons to snow slopes as we dug in our heels and went with the slide. It was probably the highlight of my trip, sliding down the side of that dune. I recorded as I went down watching the others slip and slide along with me... the video can be seen by clicking the link below.
From the bottom I watched the remaining trekkers slide down... everyone enjoyed that one, even those who did not feel so confident at the beginning.
We made our way back to camp, had a quick brekkie, watched the camels loaded up and then set off. Todays trek was promised to be a bit shorter than the hell of yesterday and the word 'flat' had even been mentioned. Given that we had beem promised stuff before, I paid little notice and prepared for a test of mind and body such as we had had yesterday.
The first part of the day was littered with dunes.. one after the other in quick succession. The sun was beating us into submission but I was determined to enjoy the last full day of trekking through this spectacular landscape... determined to fix it all in my mind and lock it in.
The fact that we would be trekking in the desert on Rememberance sunday had not been lost by our group and at 10:45 we paused on the top of the dune and prepared for our own rememberance service.
For me personally, I have always had an interest in WW1, WW2, Vietnam and other conflicts in history... I have travelled to the D-day beaches, Cambrai, the Somme, Paschendale, Vimy Ridge, Monte Cassino, Nurenburg, Warsaw, and many other places affected by war where men died in their millions. I have also journeyed to Auscwitz and Dachau and seen the remains of the horrors of the holocaust firsthand....
I remember every day but was grateful for the opportunity to remember in such a place as the Sahara with such a wonderful group of people.
We stood reverently and silently at 11am each of us lost in our thoughts.
A poem was read by one of our group..
We will remember them.
I placed a rememberance cross with a poppy in the sand... it felt like a fitting place for it, surrounded by a desolate landscape.
The trek continued, the sombre mood dissipated as we walked surrounded by our group of friends from around the world. Lunch was calling and we headed towards that call eagerly. The landscape had changed again subtly with the higher dunes replaced by smaller undulations and gradually a few trees began to appear dotted about.
We sat in the meagre shade eating the fantastic lunch once again prepared for us and then listened as chris pulled out a guitar and entertained as we relaxed.
After lunch we lifted up our packs and prepared for the last push. We had done around half distance and had around another 7 miles to go. The sun had found a new level of blazing and was beating down with full force. This part of the trek for me was the hardest. I felt so very thirsty and just couldn't seem to quench that thirst. I concentrated on putting one foot in front of the other and followed Jamal's steps in the sand. It was clear I wasn't the only. one finding this part of the day hard... although the dunes weren't as high as yesterday, the undulating nature continued... up a dune, down a dune, up a dune, down a dune. We stretched out further apart, those at the back valiantly traipsing after the ones at the front, catching up when we stopped only to get less rest as the front moved on...
It seemed to be endless. My strategy was just to assume we had hours of trekking ahead and not allow my mind to think it was nearly over...
as the miles passed, the shadows lengthened and we reached the top of a dune to wait for the others...
I looked round and there in the distance, I could see white tents...
could they be our toilet tents. Ironic that it be the toilet tents that led us home, given that I had done my best to avoid them for the whole trip (sand dunes are much better).
I still didn't want to assume so I checked with Jamal who confirmed that that was our final destination. Ok so it hadn't been flat, it hasn't been much easier than the day before but the clue was in the name...
Global Adventure CHALLENGE!
At that moment, I suddenly felt a little sad. Sad that this was the last full day of trekking, I was just getting into it...
Sad that we would soon be leaving the peace and quiet of the desert, leaving behind the spectacular landscapes and the sunrises and the sunsets. I vowed I would be back. Plus I still hadn't found any snakes...
Once we were all together, we strode over the flatter sand towards our camp... spped picked up as everyone made a beeline for the shade of our tents and the waiting tea and coffee.
Once there camp routines set in, only we had a bit more free time before dinner so we sat together, shooting the breeze, climbed up to the ridgeline and generally started to relax into the evening.
The toilet tents were once again a source for oversharing and a source of amusement, particular because one had a toilet seat set above a hole at such an angle that one was almost sideways, one was set so that either your head or your arse was sticking out and the other was gaping to such an extent that you had to hold the tent flaps shut whilst trying to perform the necessary motions. It was hilarious unless you needed to go in a hurry. I have never spend so much time. discussing the 'bathroom' and the goings on inside it 😂
Tonight, our last night in the desert had to top the lot. We had wood for a fire, we had willing musicians, we had a group of people who were eager to celebrate their achievements... it was going to be a good one.
We all gathered around the fire after dinner amd S'ahar stepped up to the plate. The music filled the desert air along with clapping and singing and the cameraderie was evident between us all. Then our guides and camp staff stepped up and treated us to a traditional Berber song which was then followed by another where we were dragged up to dance round the fire with them. At one point S'ahar joined in with a rendition of 'Weather With you', an exclusive Crowded house/Berber mix of music.
The songs lasted long into the night before one by one the trekkers crept away to their tents. Myself and Kirsty hauled our mats up to the top of a dune, and bedded down.
Now I hope Kirsty won't mind me sharing the next bit (she did tell all the trekkers the next day) but just as we settled down, she decided she needed a 'jungle wee' but couldn't be bothered to trek over to the toilet tents... 'Would it be ok if I just hopped over the other side of the dune' she asked me.
'Sure it will be fine' I said as I glanced around to ensure no one was around. All good. I settled back into my sleeping bag... until I heard a shout and then a bit of a scream... 'The sand' s moving!!!
Sure enough she had gone arse over tip and ended up head down in the dune considerably further down than she had started...
it was around this point that uncontrollable laughter took over. I have never laughed so hard...
I did manage to splutter out an 'are you ok?' amidst the laughter before creasing up again at the sight of kirsty crumpled in a heap on the dune. Needless to say she had sand in places sand shouldn't be!
I helped her back up the dune and settled back in my sleeping bag whilst she disappeared back to her tent to change her clothes.
The stars were out in force, the moon was on its way up and there was total peace. I was warm, I was comfy, I had the stars as my ceiling... I can imagine nothing better in life than these moments in time.
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