Everglades Day 4 - Kool Kayakking

 My aim today was to get to the marina as early as possible, hire a kayak amd head up the canal (yes like the ones back home) into the backcountry. I had decoded not to get a backcountry camping permit and go out camping as I wasn't sure how far it was to the nearest chikee (camping platform on the water) and whether it would be a good thing to go out and back and spend 2 days doing that when there was other stuff to see. That said it was also an opportunity to see what the wilderness kayakking trail was like and suss it out for another trip one day to do the whole waterway which was about 7 days worth of kayakking at the least.

So I rented the kayak for the day... a nice little sit on top, very stable kayak. The weather was overcast but warm, kinda perfect and I had provisions, food and water, stashed in my rucksack behind me. I wasn't worried about kayakking with crocs in the water because I know they are generally likely to tey and avoid me and unless I fell into the water bleeding profusely and thrashing around, they were unlikely to be that bothered about me (mental note - try not to thrash around if I fall into the canal bleeding profusely!)

I was just hoping that I would spot a few more... or maybe a snake swimming in the calm waters... or anything... other than more frickin herons!

I set off, paddling smoothly and slowly, knowing I had a lot of paddling hours and also to try to keep all as calm as possible so as not to disturb anything.. more chance of seeing something if you stay quiet and glide along.

The canal had been dug as a way to access the backcountry areas without having to go all the way over to the 1000 islands side and then through. They then had to build a kind of dam at the marina as they found that the saltwater from the bay was coming in too much and changing the ecosystem. The dam stops that happening and keeps the water of the canal less salty than the bay water, nnot quite freshwater, more brackish. It certainly. had a salty tang (I didn't specifically drink the canal water, some ended up on my water bottle)

So basically the canal ran straight up through towards coot bay and then onto the wilderness waterway. The canal was boardered on both sides by a tangle of mangroves, the roots competing to get to the water, all weaving inside and out of each other. Their seed pods stretched down to the water, occasionally dropping with a splash and bobbing along to end up pretty much anywhere in the world. Mangroves do pretty well in many places.

Another interesting fact about the mangrove is that a few of their leaves are genetically destined to die and fall off... only a few as they dont drop all their leaves in winter. These few leaves are selected to be the ones that absorb all the salt that the mangrove 'ingests', gradually the salt kills them, they turn yellow and drop off. Its a pretty cool way for the mangrove to deal with the harsh salty conditions.

The mangrove also provides a sturdy barrier to protect wildlife and out on the coast as a barrier for the mainland, when a hurricane passes through. Its a cool plant for sure.

Plus as I meandered down, I loved looking at the root sytems and the pattern they created that were reflected in the ultra smooth water. Beauty in the chaos of nature right there!

At one point the skies opened up and I was soaked to the skin in seconds, then just a s quickly as it came, it dried up. Thats the  beauty of it here... it's warm rain and everything dries pretty quickly when its 26C or higher!

I kept scouring the banks for signs of crocs or gators... nothin doing, they weren't out to play today... oh but look... a heron!  And another! and another! bloody herons!

They are magnificent looking birds in general and here I could just cruise up to them, giving me some great pics of the little blue heron and the tricoloured heron, who just stood on their branches unconcerned by my presence. 

And then the silence and the peace gets shattered by a powerboat. 

As necessary it seems to Florida life as a house, everyone seems to own one and the cool truck to pull it along on the road. What I don't get, is how in some parts of the canal they are allowed to gun the engine full throttle and leave behind in their wake (literally) a frothy water sloshing mess. Not to mention the possibility that they could have killed a manatee or a dolphin. They have to slow down to pass a kayakker and there are some zones which are no wake zones where they have to idle along but I still dont get why they are allowed to open up the throttle at all on the canal where even the wake itself could be destructive to the bank or nests or life? 

But that was the compromise made so that people could enjoy the park... it is not the waterways as such that are protected, it is the canal or water bed and the mangroves either side. 

Rant over... the peace returned as the wake of the powerboat diminished and I was once again in peace paddling. 

Eventually I reached the mouth of coot bay, a wide expanse of water which I had to cross to get to the next part of the waterway. As I set out, I looked to my left and with surprise noted that there were 2 dolphins not that far away from me, occasionally letting out a spout of water as they arched their backs... wow. lucky me!! I followed them away from the direction I wanted to go for a few minutes but they sped away faster than I could paddle, so I let them go, turned round and began the crossing! 

It was reasonably hard work as the wind was whipping up little waves but at least it wasn't too strong. It was quite untimidating crossing a large expanse of water like that when I am more used to river banks on either side of me and I felt a little like I did when I was loch kayakking... but hey ho.. onwards I ploughed. I reached the entrance channel to the wilderness waterway and headed down... similar to the canal. I glided along, not using too much power. As with anything you have to conserve enough energy to get back.!

The sun was now beating down and I was pretty hot... my legs were starting to burn so. more sunscreen was applied and I hadnt seen so much as a scale of any kinda reptile. Guess what though... there were plenty of herons, along with the now familiar egret. and ibis. and vultures hovering above. Not that bad really huh?

I reached the end of that section and was confronted with a wide expanse of open water, dotted with mangrove keys here and there. On my gps the waterway was shown as thin line but im guessing it had flooded waay over that leaving essentially a sea of water ahead. I knew the direction to travel but time was running out and I knew it may take longer to go back as the current was against me. and the wind. was. picking up ever so slightly and would also be against me. Here the water was smooth and calm and I looked for more dolphins or other wildlife....

nothing, just a glass smooth water. It was still heavenly. Again that feeling of peace and tranquility descended upon me... I breathed in and out, taking in the sounds and the smells of the water as it lapped the shore of mangrove. This is what life is.

I reluctantly turned the kayak ariund and began smoothly gliding down back towards Coot bay... but there had been a slight change and the wimd had whipped up more meaning that when I hit Coot Bay the waves were higher and the wimd was most certainly agaimst me. I initially decided to srick more close to the shore rather than head straight across the exposed expanse of water and although it was longer, provided a little shelter from the effects of the wind and the waves... but there came a point when I just had to kinda strike out and make for the point where the canal began again.

I was paddling away and seemingly going nowhere. I was putting all my strength into pulling with my whole core and the wimd and the waves pushed me back...

Imperceptibly slowly I inched forward bit by bit...

The effort began to take its toll and as I stopped to catch a bus reather, I lost ground that I would have to gain again. It felt like the ultimate battle of will, mine against the might of the wind and some smallish waves... I mean this was no perfect storm scenario but it was hard work and it tires you quickly. At one point I wondered whether it would be easier to aim straight for the nearer shoreline and then follow it round but actually I don't think it would have been any easier as then my kayak would have been side on to the direction of the waves almost. So I gritted my teeth and doubled my efforts and paddle speed. I was winning, slowly, surely I was gaining ground.

After what seemed like forever, my kayak reached the more protected mouth of the canal and the wimd and the waves just melted away as if they had never existed and I glided back into the canal.

The journey back was mainly uneventful. I went slowly, somewhat energy depleted after the Coot Bay battle. 

When I was nearing the marina once more, I suddenly saw bubbles and a wide line appear at the surface. The wide line turned into a manatee tail which popped up above the surface, presumably whilst the manatee was feeding on the seagrass beneath. 

The head popped up breifly before diving down again.. this happened several times quite close to my kayak but the pictures I took just missed the moment with just the tail visible on the surface. A bit like the pink river dolphins in the Amazon, the photo almost ended up as the spot where they were!

It was exciting to get a bit closer to this lovely gentle giant but I left him feeding and headed back... an eye out for crocs sunning themselves on slipways but to no avail. Never mind, Dophins and a manatee would have to do!

It was a weary me that crawled back to the campside and bedded down in my cozy tent pretty early for the night... but not before  I had managaed to grab a quick pic of the little frog that resided in the campsite showers. Cute little thing and completely unbothered by me.

It had been a good day and plans for tomorrow had already formed.