Day 5 - It started with a rainbow

 

I awoke to a wet tent, muddy volcanic sand all around (which sticks to everything by the way) and absolutely no view whatsoever! We were in the cloud... it was cold... and everything had condensation on it. Not many worse things than packing up a wet tent with cold hamds but that was my lot this morning.

I was still seething about those people the night before and my mood was low. That said I had decided overnight to give myself an easy... er day today. There was a mountain hut near a lake about 15 miles away. I was going to stop there and have a half day of cycling. Give my body, muscles and arse time to recuperate a bit. Id also heard good things about the camping at this hut so once that decision was made it freed me up a bit for the climb out from this hut.

The cloud was swirling aroumd still blocking the view and indeed anything beyond 200 yards. The push up from the hut was steep and energy consuming. In my desire to get away from the people, I left without breakfast. I knew, aside from the initial climb from the hut, that the road was rideable at least until the point I turned off last night, beyond that who knew... but I had time and not far to go.

As I went across the black sand high plain, the sun started burning off the cloud, revealing the mountain I had cycled past so wearily last night. I stopped and looked at the scene... cloud lifting to reveal the view ahead, the volcano shaped mountain to my left and then appeared a rainbow.. small and perfectly formed. What a lovely way to start the day. I had obviously convinced the cycling gods that I had suffered enough yesterday for them to reveal such perfection to me. It made the detour off route and the laughing strangers worthwhile.  It was so perfect that tears rose unbidden to my eyes. how lucky was I to be able to witness this masterpiece of natural beauty, how lucky to be able to ride my bike (or push it!) to places such as this. Life is for moments like this but I also feel that it wouldn't have seemed so perfect if I hadn't struggled so much yesterday. Elation and despair working in tandem with rewards such as this!

I tore myself away from this with whispered thanks to the cycling gods and headed back to the junction where I broke off yesterday. Now I would see if I had made a good choice. The road was good enough to cycle with even the climbs manageable. It meandered up and down and from one valley to the next. Off the black sand plain and into a green valley exploding with colour from the floor to the tops of the mountains.

Some of the downhills were a little sketchy, one or two being so steep and full of loose gravel that I elected to walk. But generally it was a fast descent to the bottom of this green valley, balancing on the pedals and enjoying how my 29 inch wheels took it all in their stride. Skidding round bends and bumping over rocks on the sort of downhill you would find on a red run at a trail centre... or coming down snowdon by bike, which I have also done!

Eventually I reached the valley and my first river crossing. This was going to be interesting. I sat and chatted to some young american guys whilst watching a few people cross. Once they left, I took off my socks and shoes, hung my boots around my neck and looked for a good place to wheel my bike across. The current was fast and knee deep and at the point I decided to cross there was a gravel bar half way. I stepped in... Bloody hell, I was expecting cold but this took my breath away. My bike threatened to be swept away and I had to drag it back upright once or twice. I reached the gravel bar....

Back in to the freezimg cold and over to the other side. My feet were in pain from the cold water and I hopped around a bit, uttering expletives. I wheeled my bike back to the road, dried my feet and put my socks and shoes back on, whilst watching a steady stream of trekkers file past. All said hi, or commented on my bike. I warmed up in the sun before heading back on the road to the next obstacle, either another ford or a bridge with steep steps up to it.... I chose to haul my bike up the steps unwilling to get wet again.

On the other side I stopped when I saw a herd of horses driven over the ford. It was a nice sight.

Back on the bike and not far to go now. Cycling for the most part. Another river, this time an easy cycle through and the  push up a steep slope. Some trekkers were coming down their trail and one guy was taking photos of me pushing my bike. I asked if he could email them to me as I rarely get photos of me with my bike!

As I reached the top of the incline, another trekker smiled at me and shouted respect! All this countered the laughter from the day before. The trekkers were all filing from the hut I was aiming for so I knew it wasn't much further and as I scooted downhill, there it was. With relief I headed over and checked that I could pitch my tent. With the affirmative reply, I then headed over to the restaurant building and ordered mexican chicken soup with bread and butter and a coke..... sooo good!

The pitch I chose for my tent overlooked the lakes and mountains beyond and was a lovely location for the afternoon. I waljed round the lake and had a snooze and generally tried to take it easy in preparation for tomorrow which will see me head off towards Landmannalaugur. Fingers crossed the road condition is as good as today.😁