Day 7.. Head in the clouds in the company of Eagles

 

It was an early morning start as I raced out of the campsite to catch my ferry to Uist... I did have time to stick a couple of energy gels onto Val and Anette's bike, as given the terrain, they were going to need them.

The drive down to the ferry was filled with little gems that I didn't have time to stop at.... maybe on the way back. The roads wound round the hills, singletrack most of the time with blind bends and crests... it was fun to drive  though pretty slow going.

I arrived at the ferry and made the mistake of not buying something to eat at the little butty bus as assumed could eat on the ferry. Unfortunately this ferry was a stay in your car kinda one. For probably the first time. in my life, I felt a little seasick, probably because I was in a car unable to see the view... it was not so fun.

As soon as the ferry docked I aimed with purpose to a car park... yup a car park. Here I could see seals apparently, sitting on the rocks. As I rounded the bend I could see some fat shapes lying on the rocks... yup seals. It was so exciting to see them in the wild. I parked up and clambered down just enough to get a decent picture  and not enough to scare them. They didnt seem too concerned, lying there in the drizzle and cold (did I mention the weather turned). I stood and watched them for a while, my hands getting colder by the second and for once in my life wishing I had more blubber to keep me warm!

I spotted a couple playing in the water, so graceful compared to the land version, who flolloped along whenever they could be bothered to move  I was getting very cold and the majority barely moved except perhaps the odd flipper to scratch themselves. I decided to move on and head towards the campsite.

Having not given much thought of what to do today, I was ambling along watching the scenery. Much flatter than Harris, the odd rise but certainly  nothing to the extent I had seen yesterday. There were few trees, apparently used up by the vikings years ago. Only a few small forests remain, leaving the landscape fairly uninteresting at first glance.

I screeched to a stop.. A sign for a walk up one of the few hills... a quick. google later and I was packing my bag with provisions ready to take on the might of the little hill in the distance. Going solo means that I have to carry all the stuff that I may need, so if im in a place that im unfamiliar with, I will pack anything I might need, especially if it involves a climb up. Headtorch first aid kit.. you get the picture. unfortunately this means lugging a pack. with me... but that is what I must to in order to go solo.

So. slightly laden, I set off.. the way marked by marker posts with yellow tops. I followed them. across the boggy landscape. It was hard work lifting my feet out of the wet peat and moss, like walking through sand and pretty soon I was stripping off layers. The bog sucked at my shoes, which were fantastic at keeping my feet dry. My trouser legs were quickly soaked through but fortunately the sun had come out. If the drizzle had continued, I think I would have been very cold by that point.

Onwards I went until the land started to rise up towards the hill, which was shrouded in thick cloud. I couldn't see the top but didn't worry too much as there were plenty of marker posts pointing the way.

Then I saw 2 large black shapes, soaring above me. Eagles judging by the size and shape, but which kind. I knew both the Golden Eagle and the Sea Eagle could be spotted here but couldn't see a white tail which denotes the Sea Eagle. I watched then whirling around gracefully on the updrafts, mesmorized by the sight and feeling so lucky to see them.

Upwards I went until the path turned to the right. I would now loop round the hill, climb up to the top and intersect back with the path I had come up on. The path was now slightly rockier and as I went between the intersection of the two hills, I felt like something was watching me. I glanced around and there on a rock high above me were 2 deer, ears pricked uo, watching me pass. They felt like guardians of the hill, assessing me to see whether they would admit me into their domain. I nodded at them and walked on. As I turned the bend, i got hit by a cold wind and the cloud, reducing the visability a little. Given I could still see the marker posts behind and ahead I kept on going, winding my way up the rocky escarpment. With each foot that I climbed, the visibility got worse and the harder the wind blew.

It was at this point I had to make a decision. Was it safe to keep going? Whilst this hill was not that high, a steep drop was off to the left of me and in bad visability even an easy hike can turn into a bad situation, especially if you are hiking solo.

So I assessed... I had a GPS so worst came to the worst, I coudld zoom that in and literally retrace my steps almost to the meter. I could still see the next marker post... barely.. but could still see it. As long as I could see the next one, I was good. So I plodded on upwards, visability and cold worsening with each foot climbed. I reached the summit... I could barely see anything beyond the pile of rocks left there... I added one as is tradition and turned to look for the next post... gone in the cloud. I couldn't see it at all... I stood and waited, sweeping my horizon for a yellow topped post....

The wind blew a little. more and I caught sight of the marker and keeping it in focus headed over to that... and stopped....

No sight of the next one...

I could see a trig point for the next little peak so headed up to that... touched my hand on it and then scanned around for the next post denoting the way down... nothing... I stood and waited agaim for a gust of wind to clear the cloud a little, still nothing. So I went back to the previous marker which I had ensured I could still see.

It was a little sketchy... not really bad.. but a little sketchy. I have read many stories of people falling off places in cloud and poor visability... and not just Everest or K2. Quite often accidents happen in smaller playgrounds because people don't think or prepare.  I was ok. I had GPS so I knew how to get back via the path I had been. But I wanted to. complete the circle as there was a memorial on the other side that I wanted to see.

After 10 minutes of seeing if the cloud would clear, I wanded away from my marker post, being careful to make sure it stayed in view. After about 10 paces I caught sight of another post, not yellow topped which had hidden it from me initally. I headed towards that with speed, tapping it on the top when I got there... another search for the next one and finally I saw one but it was loose between some rocks... could I trust the arrow on it or had it been turned??

I went for trust  and headed into the cloud to find the next one...

Got it! All the while I had been descending between posts and the visability was slowly improving slightly. I had rounded another corner so was now protected from the viscious wind that was whipping around the top.

I hopped from post to post, now confident in finding my way back, tapping each one on the top as a thank you for guiding the way.

After a while I looked down to se strewn metal pieces, almost unrecognisable for what they were. Bolts and bits of wire and over there an entire section of twisted metal. On that piece I could see rivulets  and there looked like part of fuselage.

I had arrived at the grave site of ten brace pilots and the wreckage around me was that of a B24 liberator which crashed in 1943, quite probably due to the poor visability which surrounds this hill. I believe 6 were dead on impact and villagers from nearby mounted a rescue attempt but the other 4 men succumbed to their injuries.

It was a sad place.

I put a stone on top of the monument in recognition of those that had died here, noting as I did so that the sun had appeared and cleared the way downwards.

Time to get off this hill!

I bounded downwards to the warmth of lower elevation and slogged my way back through the bog. 2 more deer startled by my apprearance galloped across with ease and an owl took flight startled by the deer.

It had been a good hike.

The Eagles weren't above any more and as I turned back to look at the peaks, the cloud had fully. cleared and the sun was shining down... typical!

I hopped in the car again and made my way to the cmampsite for the next 3 nights, Otter's Edge. Hopefully I will see an otter and maybe some more eagles in the next few days.

That evening I wandered along the beach at high tide to see about kayak possibilities for tomorrow... it would once again be a bit of a drag to the beach here so I may have to go a bit further down. Apparently a few hours before low tide is best to see the otters so I will time it all tomorrow to get the best chance.

Fingers crossed.

LHS X