Day 3.. Sound of Thunder

 I'm writing the blog for Day 3 on day 4...

Spoiler alert... with hindsight I would have used day 3's title for day 4... but such is life.

Day 3 started out reasonably early... it has been so hot here I was determined to try and get some cycling done well before the sun reached its strongest point. I set out from Avezzano, quickly through the town and out into the cultivated fields. The roads here were dead straight marking the field boundaries. I wondered if once upon a time there had been a Roman city under the fields and the roads were following ancient lines. They were certainly dead straight.

The road which I was on was fairly quiet and as the sun got ever hotter, it glistened off the mountains in the distance... 

I went past agricultural buildings and ploughed fields, generators roaring into life to pump water from the dirty stream onto the fields. Lots of rubbish lay scattered by the side of the road and despite the beauty of the day and the mountains ahead, it felt dirty and unloved. 

I was cycling past a gentleman, one of many that day, most of whom looked utterly miserable, when he looked up and started shouting... I was puzzled... until I heard the growl by my right leg and saw a large somewhat vicious dog bearing down on me... I swerved and peddled as fast as I could, trying to get out of its guard range... I aimed a foot at it, then withdrew that quickly as it came again. Eventually it got bored and trotted back, leaving me a little pissed off with people who don't keep their dogs under control!

I eventually reached the little town of Piscina, gateway to my mountains and stopped for late breakfast at a little cafe. There I sat basking in the sunshine getting hotter by the second. I ate a sandwich then went to pay and got my water bottle refilled

The bartender commented on the screw in my ear... and even in a foreign language it provided something to break the ice with. The owner then told the bartender to give me a cup of coffee.... he wanted me to try proper coffee. I didn't have the heart to tell him that I don't like strong coffee so dutifully downed it whilst telling him how good it was. Worst coffee I have ever had! 

I was already concerned about water... I could carry 3 litres but it was ridiculously hot again and I hadn't even hit the mountains yet. But I ploughed on hoping reports of water along the route were good.

The route was of course uphill... the start was straight up.. cobbles... I thought I had left those behind in Ecuador... and straight up. The hike a bike begins. It went past this lovely church where I sat and looked down at the town I had left behind and mused that this would a good place to pitch a tent. More pushing later and I pass some ruins... another good place to pitch. you see... I knew I was sleeping in the mountains tonight and I was keeping an eye out for places suitable... but it was waay too early to be doing that and so I kept going up. It was relentless but beautiful... stunning even and despite the huge amount of effort and sweat that was pouring out of me... I felt free. It had been worth the last minute plans and sweaty palms trying to find a covid acceptable plan. The gravel was hot and dry and white and the sun glared down... beating me into submission... or at least trying. At times I rode... gasping in the air as I struggled uphill... the thought always being... could I have packed less.? That struggle to balance need and comfort. Did I need a tent or could a tarpalin do? Sleeping bag... warmth v weight v expense. I had spent a fair bit on kit recently and in the next blog I will share now why im glad I did... but thats tomorrows story. Day 3's story was one of struggle and dehydration and not enough water. The problem was that there were no streams or more accurately.. they were all dry! I keep a life straw with me so that I can literally suck up dirty puddle water... bit there were no puddles at all and I was very thirsty!

On and on it went with the sun blazing down... skipping from one bit of shade to another as I got higher and higher. The track itself may have been ridable without kit... and if I was fitter to be honest... but weighed down with(by any persons standards) as small amount of kit as I could get away with... it became hike a bike! The day wore on... and me with it. Yet I couldn't help but chuckle at myself.... I was on holiday... yet here I was sweating my guts out... again... uphill! They say stupidity is repeating the same thing over again and expecting a different outcome right? Well the thing is, I was still enjoying myself in that weird way I have... I was in sunshine... in the mountains and with my bike... it really doesn't get much better.

So this struggle continued on. After 4pm I started thinking about where to sleep. I required a pitch for my tent that was out of the wind that was building up but more importantly away from any livestock! For those of you that followed my Ecuador trip.. you will know that having a cow bump into. my tent at 2am scared the shit out of me and I did not want a repeat of that.  cows are big animals and I was lucky last time not to get trodden on and hurt.

I couldn't find anywhere flat to begin with... I had passed a couple of great sites further down but it was too early to stop and I thought that such nice pasture looked like it was tailor made for animals. Then I saw some people herding sheep down and decided to continue round the next bend.. and the next....

The sheep herders disappeared bit round the next bend was a herd of cattle with bells ringimg as they grazed. I passed carefully cursing about the sites I had passed by. Everywhere I looked there was old cow pat or horse crap. I had passed some wild horses galloping uphill ahead of me. Definately did not want to be trampled by those. Just one. more bend... Just one more uphill... I will just see what is over that crest...

The light was fading as I stopped at the top of yet another hill.... darkness would descend quickly here and I knew I had to make a decision. Here it was to be.

It wasn't a bad spot... I had a great view of the sunset and could still feel the heat of the day so I wasn't cold up here on the top of a mountain. The spot I had picked was sheltered a little both by the brow of the hill and a large rock which I had put my bike against. My tent would back against the rock with gorse bushes either side, leaving the view in front unobstructed. I was nervous about the cows... I could hear the bells constantly and although they were on another hill top, I knew from experience that they move quickly. 

This was the first time I had put up this tent in the field... and it was surprisingly quick and easy. In no time I had a solid shelter. (more about the msr elixr in Day 4 blog.

Then with the sun turning red and heading down over the mountain, it was time to make food. I bought an Alpkit brewkit, a cheaper copy of the jetboil stove. Basically it was anstove and a saucepan/mug all in one, so you made the food in the pot and then ate out of it. I poured in the pasta and some water, fired the ignition and off it went.

It boiled in superquick time and I turned it down to simmer as I watched the sun set. It was idyllic. In no time at all, the pasta had pesto added and I was eating hot food! Fantastic bit of kit! 

Then I snuggled into my new ultra warm sleeping bag and switched off the light. I had decided to keep the fly open so I could see out if there was any noises outside and part of me feels thos was a good idea except that with every bell ring or gorse bush hitting my tent, I sat bolt upright and looked out... nothing. At one point I saw some deer on the top of the mountain, silhouetted perfectly. I must have dozed off at some point as I awoke to the sound of thunder and the ground shaking under my body. I sat up and opened the tent.......

The thunder and the shaking got worse and suddenly just below me came a thundering horse, followed by a stream of cows, their eyes glowing manically as my torchlight hit them. They charged across the ground as if something was chasing them and I watched until the thunder of hooves died down leaving the world peaceful again.

Then there was an awful bellow as if something was hurt and calling for help. I didn't know what it was but it kept me awake for a while. I found out later on day 4, what had made that noise... it wasn't a cow!

I tossed. and turned every couple of hours and at one point I think I sat up and saw two horses. outside my tent, eyes gleaming, but I'm not sure if I dreamt that!

i woke up at 4 to see  if it was getting light but the sun had not yet made an appearance. It was only at 6 that the light began to peek above the horizon and I opened the tent door to the sound of cow bells... up on the mountain top!