Day 18 - Hardland ripped and torn apart
Day 18
The rain was coming down in torrents, no deluge... no ... in biblical proportions... and im not exaggerating much. All night it had hammered down as as I peered out my window into the early morning gloom.. yup youve guessed it.... still raining.
My plan then was too set out a little later.. see if the rain would abate somewhat as it had yesterday. I had the 'luxury' of only 54 odd miles today on what should be an easy run (curse that thought... the cycling gods are listening) and therefore felt I could afford a bit of time.
I was extremely tired, worn out after the exertions of yesterday. Everything hurt. I had a lump on my spine from where my rucksack has been bashing... mildly sunburnt legs... knees that felt like those of an 80 year old.... sore arse... and generally totally body tired. The thought of heading out to do battle in that rain was not an appealing one... yet I hauled myself up and packed up, the routine so practised that I was still done and out the door by 07:30 despite my avowed intent to procrastinate.
Once again.. I had ensured everything was carefully waterproofed and today decided to add my leg warmers to my cycle apparail. I was wearing baselayer, cycle shorts and jersey, shorts, legwarmers, rainjacket, windproof gillet and my buff. In short, pretty much all the cycling clothing I was carrying.
The short hop across the road to the cafe was enough to get me damp and somewhat cold.
I ordered pancakes with berries and bananas and my now customary chai latte and sat watching the rain hit the ground hard. Once breakfast was finished.. I sat undercover outside with my bike watching the rain, every now and again becoming convinced it was lightening up, only for the rain to increase in intensity. The fact that I was sitting next to my bike contemplating going out drew many comments from passers by. One lady said if her car wasnt full, she'd offer me a lift. We got talking and I asked her about the road to Reefton. No real climbs, winds its way through the gorge and then flat down SH69 came the reply.
By 08:30 the rain still hadnt slowed so I decided to just go for it... otherwise I could be waiting all day! Deep breath and out I went.. immediately wet. Yet it wasnt so bad... once wet you cant get any wetter and the roads were pretty much deserted. A short climb out of the town and then I was back into the gorge... the road snaking around the foot of the hills high above the river. Flat would not be a word to describe it... but the rises and falls of the road were all pleasantly manageable. And it was stunning scenery. I was surrounded by green... ferns, palm trees.. it had a jungle like feel. And far below the river carved its way with tremendous force... swollen with the recent heavy rainfall. At the side of the road were waterfalls crashing down the hillside, following channels under the road before falling down to add to the river. I was enjoying myself.
The first 20 miles were like this ... only the ups became steeper. Not of epic proportions by any means but to my legs every rise in the road suddenly became a mountain pass and my legs were spinning round but not generating any power at all. Empty... totally fried... bonking big style. I kept stopping to shove sweets and breakfast bars in my mouth... to no avail. And what had seemed an easy run... suddenly became an absolute grind. The scenery distracted a little for the most part but it didnt help that every time I stopped I was swarmed by horrible biting flies. An introduction to the sand fly perhaps.? This ensured that my stops were brief and pushed me onwards.
At one point on a climb up... my legs just gave out. I walked my bike to the top of a climb and found 'a scenic lookout point' complete with bench. It was time for a roll and brie, slightly more substantial than wine gums. As I stood there preparing brunch, in the rain of course, several cars stopped and disgorged their occupants, briefly it turned out, because no sooner had they looked at the view then they decided it was too wet, hopped back in their cars, and drove off. They missed the rainbow... arching over the river... only barely discernable ... but quite an uplifting sight. Food eaten.. back on the road to continue to grind out the miles. My first aim for the day was a little place at the junction of SH6 and SH69 where I would turn towards Reefton for the last 20 miles. Although it seemed an age in coming... I reached it before 12:00 and my dreams of the past 30 miles came true. A cafe... open... serving hot food and drink!! I had thought it possible but had hardly dared to hope and had set myself up for dissapointment. I stashed my faithful bike under the overhanging roof and went in... ordered chips and battered sausage and sank gratefully into a chair.
Still raining of course... once lunch was finished I set out again... knowing that the road was deemed to be flat from here too Reefton... and for once... it was true... which is just as well. The gorge had given way to deserted fields in another River valley. I said goodby to the Buller River that had been my not so silent companion for the past two days and followed another river as it wound its way, somewhat more calmly that the Buller River, down the valley. I was crawling along.. every mild rise in the road causing me to crash down into granny gears. I knew I would make my destination, that wasnt a concern, but reaching it as quick as possible was, to allow my legs a bit more recovery time ready for tomorrows longer stage.
It was no use... no matter how much I implored my legs... they werent listening. They turned the pedals, indifferent to my minds urging. I even had a light tailwind... yes TAILWIND... which again is just as well. If I had been hit with a headwind at this point... I probably would have got out my bivvy bag and curled up by the side of the road.
By 1400 I had ten miles to go. The school bus sign had appeared and signs of civilisation appearing. Adding to my woes... my headphones had died... leaving me with no music to soothe my troubles... leaving me to hear the sound of my chain squeaking(need more oil) and the sound of my wheels on the treacle tarmac. 6 miles to go... still no sight of the town... 4 miles to go... am I ever going to bloody get there... 2 miles... WHERE is the bloody place... 1 mile... Town sign in the distance. Woohooo! Reefton.. The town of light. Apparently because it was the first place in the southern hemisphere to generate its own electricity for public use in 1888, including street lighting.
At that point I really didnt care about bloody street lighting... I needed a place to stay... food and go shopping for provisions and way more importantly for headphones and mosquito spray.
I was going to aim for the Old Nurses home accomodation but to be honest... cool as that would have been... I swung into the first motel I saw. Asked about a vacancy... then cheekily a discount. Yes to both and was shown to 'the cottage' ... a sweet... somewhat old fashioned 2 bedroomed place.. with living room, kitchen and even a washing machine!
I spread my stuff out to dry... changed and went to explore. 4 square supermarket and stocked up including the all important bug spray... but no headphones... agggghhhhh! Directed to an electrical shop and panic over.
Seriously would have been in a bad mood without music!
Then pub... food... and then back to the cottage. The electric fire on (I was bloody cold after todays continuous soaking) and then I crashed out... for hours!!
Leaving me writing this blog at midnight lol.
Have been unable to load photos for the day so will try again tomorrow... something to do with the network connection... which is impossibly slow around here... even with my own personal hotspot.
So here is hoping for a better leg day tomorrow. Day 18 done... the dream is still alive!
The rain was coming down in torrents, no deluge... no ... in biblical proportions... and im not exaggerating much. All night it had hammered down as as I peered out my window into the early morning gloom.. yup youve guessed it.... still raining.
My plan then was too set out a little later.. see if the rain would abate somewhat as it had yesterday. I had the 'luxury' of only 54 odd miles today on what should be an easy run (curse that thought... the cycling gods are listening) and therefore felt I could afford a bit of time.
I was extremely tired, worn out after the exertions of yesterday. Everything hurt. I had a lump on my spine from where my rucksack has been bashing... mildly sunburnt legs... knees that felt like those of an 80 year old.... sore arse... and generally totally body tired. The thought of heading out to do battle in that rain was not an appealing one... yet I hauled myself up and packed up, the routine so practised that I was still done and out the door by 07:30 despite my avowed intent to procrastinate.
Once again.. I had ensured everything was carefully waterproofed and today decided to add my leg warmers to my cycle apparail. I was wearing baselayer, cycle shorts and jersey, shorts, legwarmers, rainjacket, windproof gillet and my buff. In short, pretty much all the cycling clothing I was carrying.
The short hop across the road to the cafe was enough to get me damp and somewhat cold.
I ordered pancakes with berries and bananas and my now customary chai latte and sat watching the rain hit the ground hard. Once breakfast was finished.. I sat undercover outside with my bike watching the rain, every now and again becoming convinced it was lightening up, only for the rain to increase in intensity. The fact that I was sitting next to my bike contemplating going out drew many comments from passers by. One lady said if her car wasnt full, she'd offer me a lift. We got talking and I asked her about the road to Reefton. No real climbs, winds its way through the gorge and then flat down SH69 came the reply.
By 08:30 the rain still hadnt slowed so I decided to just go for it... otherwise I could be waiting all day! Deep breath and out I went.. immediately wet. Yet it wasnt so bad... once wet you cant get any wetter and the roads were pretty much deserted. A short climb out of the town and then I was back into the gorge... the road snaking around the foot of the hills high above the river. Flat would not be a word to describe it... but the rises and falls of the road were all pleasantly manageable. And it was stunning scenery. I was surrounded by green... ferns, palm trees.. it had a jungle like feel. And far below the river carved its way with tremendous force... swollen with the recent heavy rainfall. At the side of the road were waterfalls crashing down the hillside, following channels under the road before falling down to add to the river. I was enjoying myself.
The first 20 miles were like this ... only the ups became steeper. Not of epic proportions by any means but to my legs every rise in the road suddenly became a mountain pass and my legs were spinning round but not generating any power at all. Empty... totally fried... bonking big style. I kept stopping to shove sweets and breakfast bars in my mouth... to no avail. And what had seemed an easy run... suddenly became an absolute grind. The scenery distracted a little for the most part but it didnt help that every time I stopped I was swarmed by horrible biting flies. An introduction to the sand fly perhaps.? This ensured that my stops were brief and pushed me onwards.
At one point on a climb up... my legs just gave out. I walked my bike to the top of a climb and found 'a scenic lookout point' complete with bench. It was time for a roll and brie, slightly more substantial than wine gums. As I stood there preparing brunch, in the rain of course, several cars stopped and disgorged their occupants, briefly it turned out, because no sooner had they looked at the view then they decided it was too wet, hopped back in their cars, and drove off. They missed the rainbow... arching over the river... only barely discernable ... but quite an uplifting sight. Food eaten.. back on the road to continue to grind out the miles. My first aim for the day was a little place at the junction of SH6 and SH69 where I would turn towards Reefton for the last 20 miles. Although it seemed an age in coming... I reached it before 12:00 and my dreams of the past 30 miles came true. A cafe... open... serving hot food and drink!! I had thought it possible but had hardly dared to hope and had set myself up for dissapointment. I stashed my faithful bike under the overhanging roof and went in... ordered chips and battered sausage and sank gratefully into a chair.
Still raining of course... once lunch was finished I set out again... knowing that the road was deemed to be flat from here too Reefton... and for once... it was true... which is just as well. The gorge had given way to deserted fields in another River valley. I said goodby to the Buller River that had been my not so silent companion for the past two days and followed another river as it wound its way, somewhat more calmly that the Buller River, down the valley. I was crawling along.. every mild rise in the road causing me to crash down into granny gears. I knew I would make my destination, that wasnt a concern, but reaching it as quick as possible was, to allow my legs a bit more recovery time ready for tomorrows longer stage.
It was no use... no matter how much I implored my legs... they werent listening. They turned the pedals, indifferent to my minds urging. I even had a light tailwind... yes TAILWIND... which again is just as well. If I had been hit with a headwind at this point... I probably would have got out my bivvy bag and curled up by the side of the road.
By 1400 I had ten miles to go. The school bus sign had appeared and signs of civilisation appearing. Adding to my woes... my headphones had died... leaving me with no music to soothe my troubles... leaving me to hear the sound of my chain squeaking(need more oil) and the sound of my wheels on the treacle tarmac. 6 miles to go... still no sight of the town... 4 miles to go... am I ever going to bloody get there... 2 miles... WHERE is the bloody place... 1 mile... Town sign in the distance. Woohooo! Reefton.. The town of light. Apparently because it was the first place in the southern hemisphere to generate its own electricity for public use in 1888, including street lighting.
At that point I really didnt care about bloody street lighting... I needed a place to stay... food and go shopping for provisions and way more importantly for headphones and mosquito spray.
I was going to aim for the Old Nurses home accomodation but to be honest... cool as that would have been... I swung into the first motel I saw. Asked about a vacancy... then cheekily a discount. Yes to both and was shown to 'the cottage' ... a sweet... somewhat old fashioned 2 bedroomed place.. with living room, kitchen and even a washing machine!
I spread my stuff out to dry... changed and went to explore. 4 square supermarket and stocked up including the all important bug spray... but no headphones... agggghhhhh! Directed to an electrical shop and panic over.
Seriously would have been in a bad mood without music!
Then pub... food... and then back to the cottage. The electric fire on (I was bloody cold after todays continuous soaking) and then I crashed out... for hours!!
Leaving me writing this blog at midnight lol.
Have been unable to load photos for the day so will try again tomorrow... something to do with the network connection... which is impossibly slow around here... even with my own personal hotspot.
So here is hoping for a better leg day tomorrow. Day 18 done... the dream is still alive!
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